It's a Comet, which was in the middle of the Supro steel line. The white knob most likely dates it to 1954 or earlier; the other knob is a replacement. If the serial number plaque is still there (nailed to the back of the headstock), the number can be looked up here. National Lap Steel Serial NumbersClick to expand.It's down in Nashville! George Gruhn's place. The salesman says everything checks out. There's a National Supro at Elderly, and I asked if the pickup worked (they're selling it as-is) and the guy tells me they don't have a way to check the pickup, because the plug broke off the wired in cable. You know, as if someone couldn't connect a DMM to the cable end, and check the pickup. So I said, thanks, I'm not taking any chances. Told him they'd have to lower the price to cover the rewind costs. I'm liking this deal better, and the Gruhn's salesman sounded like he knew what he was talking about, while the Elderly guy was more like 'It's like.' I have that exact same Bronson I found one of those Bronsons at a country auction years ago and paid $17 for it. It's not only nice looking, the pickup in mine sounds really good, clear and strong. What is really cool about that particular lap steel, Pete, is that if you look at walter Carter and George Gruhn's book, Electric Guitars, you can see that very model pictured early on in the book. Funny thing, on that same spread, the adjoining page shows a black Supro lap steel. At that same auction, I bought that black Supro model too, this time for eight bucks! (pre-E-bay and a time when lap steels had much less appeal than now. Congrats Pete on acquiring my Bronson lap steel's brother! Thanks chipl. I figured it'd only be a matter of time before ebay drove the prices way out of my range, so if I wanted a Supro built Lap Steel, I needed to buy one soon. I forget what reminded me of Gruhn's. One of those digging around the internet things. And I looked through their inventory, and this one was what I was looking for. But you got some killer deals on the ones you got! I wonder if they have a Lap Steel for Dummies book. Not that I ever found those very usefull. I got me Cindy Cashdollar's #1 DVD about teaching Lap Steel. Hope she's a better teacher than I am a learner. Play history games free. I had the Cashdollar videos they are good. They are setup for an 8 string steel but you can just ignore 2 of the strings. Ive been a lap steel player and collector since 1970. What I find myself always doing on a 6 string lap is tune toi open E A D or G and playing slide style songs like rollin & tumblin little red rooster dust my broom they are really all the same song with slight differences in timing. When I play an 8 string steel I play it like a steel tune it to C6th or E11th and play san antonio rose steel guitar rag sleepwalk etc. You can play the 6 string in C6th and do the same stuff its just easier on the 8 strings more voiceings. Mach3 usb software. Look at the images to see how i set the viewer. I dont expect anyone else to be exactly like me but when I play the 6 strings I use a distorted sound and let her rip and on the 8 strings its clean and pure steel. Hi, I already saw your new one on the other thread - hey, it's a 1952, just like my own Supro! Supro Lap Steel ModelsWith regards to some of the questions: -) Yep, some of these old Supro string-through pickups have low output - usually due to da-gaussing (the magnet has lost its magnetic power because of age) - there's a guy on, Rick Aiello, who can re-magnetise these ones again (for a really low price), and alos has some replacements (since occasionally you can find some of those Supros with one of the two magents having been replaced by a wooden dummy). -) The Cindy Cashdollar DVDs are quite good, but as has been mentioned, for 8-string C6 - the 6-string C& is liek the middle 6 strings of the 8 string; Cindy mostly uses those, but there are two or three instances were she also goes up to the high G-string, so you'll have to figure out where to play that on the highest E-string of the C6-6string. -) There's also a MelBay book for getting started on C6-lap-steel; basically, it shows ho to play some old songs (Red River Valley, Amazing Grace, Aloha Oe, and the likes); it's not a great book, but it's OK for getting you started. -) I've tried various open tunings myself, but unless you intend to play mainly blues or bluegrass, I'd start with C6 right away - much more versatile, and esp. On a 6-string, really easy to learn: t The tuning, from low to high, is CEGACE. So, for getting started, look for the root note of the MAJOR chord you'd like to play on the C-string, and omit playing the A-string (which would give the 6th) - voila, you have a full major chord. Look for the root of the MINOR chord you want to play on the A-string, omit picking the G-string - and you've got your full minor chord. There are also a few useful easy pentatonic boxes that will have you noodling away really quickly. Well, the most common one for 6 string is (low to high) CEGACE - that's the one usually referred to when people are talking about C6; always make sure whether people are listing them low to high, or high to low (which older & Hawaiian players prefer - the question whether you start listing with high or low strings is a HIGHLY controversial one on steel guitar forums - kind like maple vs. Rosewood boards over here.). For 8-string, the two most common ones are ACEGACEG (that's the one Cindy uses on the DVD) (usually called 'high C6'), and GACEGACE (= 'low C6'), but as you already noted, there are lots of variations to these standard tunings, usually varying one of the strings on top or on the bottom to get 7ths, 9ths, or whatever, for chords you need a lot in you style of music. Well, the most common one for 6 string is (low to high) CEGACE - that's the one usually referred to when people are talking about C6; always make sure whether people are listing them low to high, or high to low (which older & Hawaiian players prefer - the question whether you start listing with high or low strings is a HIGHLY controversial one on steel guitar forums - kind like maple vs. Rosewood boards over here.). For 8-string, the two most common ones are ACEGACEG (that's the one Cindy uses on the DVD) (usually called 'high C6'), and GACEGACE (= 'low C6'), but as you already noted, there are lots of variations to these standard tunings, usually varying one of the strings on top or on the bottom to get 7ths, 9ths, or whatever, for chords you need a lot in you style of music. Ummm, that's the way I understand (and listed) it too - low E is the thick one, sometimes called the first one - so CEGACE is from lowmpitch C to high pitch E. Ummm, that's the way I understand (and listed) it too - low E is the thick one, sometimes called the first one - so CEGACE is from lowmpitch C to high pitch E. Well, that's African mahogany bass neck blank (actually, a bit wider, you could make at leas two bass necks from that one); the 'fretboard' is a maple fretboard blank, I used some kind of thin permanent marker to mark the 'frets' (got the distances from a fret calculator on the internet), then painted over it with transparent paint; pickup is a Seymour Duncan Vintage P90, bridge & saddle are made from aluminium angle stock, bridge cover is made froma rosewood acoustic bridge blank. Here's a thread I wrote about building that one on the SGF.
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